North Kivu was under a state of siege. We could not ignore the tension around us as we walked along the streets of Goma. Armed soldiers were everywhere, their presence impossible to ignore. A single thought burned in our minds: we could not wait to board our flight to Belgium and return to safety. But there was one last dream to fulfill before we left the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Our stay in Congo had been challenging for many reasons, and the political tension did not help at all, but despite the difficulties, Frederik and I always found solace in nature. No matter how hungry or tired we were in Nkuba, we found the strength to rejoice in the rainforest and its wildlife. The hour we spent in Kahuzi-Biega with Bonane the silverback was one of the most amazing moments of my life. And now that we were here in Goma, so close to the famous Virunga National Park, we yearned to go there and marvel at its beauty.
The Virunga National Park, the most biodiverse park of Africa, is one of the jewels of this world. This 7800 km² expanse of wilderness has all you dream to see in Africa: vast savannas, steppes, marshlands, tropical rainforests, and alpine zones. More than 700 species of birds and 200 species of mammals, including of course the critically endangered mountain gorillas, live in the park. Frederik had dreamed of going there since he was a small kid drawing rhinos and lions in his book about the African wildlife he loved.
Unfortunately, the park is also one of the most dangerous in the world and has been since its creation in 1925. The fact that it is situated in one of the most unstable war zones in the world is not the only issue in the Virunga, it is also home to countless groups of armed rebels fighting to gain the control of the area. The thing with the Virunga is that it is not only beautiful and biodiverse, but it is also one of the most naturally rich places in the world. Gold, diamonds, oil, you can all find it in the Virunga. A lot of people want to rip the park apart to exploit these resources. The result is an endless war going on between them and the protectors of the park.
Getting there safely
We were assured we would get protection if we visited the park, so Frederik and I decided to go for it. On the morning of the 08th of October 2021, we thus left the Virunga office of Goma in their car, dutifully followed by a truck filled with armed guards: our private detailed security. A few weeks before, an Italian diplomat and members of his team had been killed in an ambush on the road leading to the park. Frederik and I shivered as we passed by the exact place where it happened, but our attention soon went back to the road in front of us: we had reached the gate of the park and soon, the lodge. Suddenly, we had entered a completely different world where the tension of the road had faded away, replaced by the calm of the park’s wild beauty. It was hard to believe that such tranquility existed in the heart of a war zone. We had a wonderful evening accompanied by a delicious supper at the lodge.
Of course, it is with heavily armed guards that we started our walk to the location of the gorillas the next morning. We did not need to be told that the weapons were not meant to protect us from the gorillas, but from potential rebels. Yet, the guards were very friendly and with the volcano in the background, the walk was a beautiful and peaceful one. In the Virunga, the gorillas are tracked continuously, so they can be studied and always protected. It took us only half an hour to join the group Frederik and I were going to observe for a magical hour.
The encounter with the gorillas
We finally arrived. We were visiting the group during their midday rest, and almost all the gorillas were either sleeping or sitting quietly munching on some plant or another. As we stood there, surrounded by the calm of the forest I felt connected to the quiet gorillas that seemed untouched by the chaos of the world beyond their lunch spot. Here, all that mattered was the tender bond between the mother and her baby cuddling a few meters away from us. Playful and adorable, the little ball of black fur kept staring at Frederik and me, when he was not annoying his mother of course. There is no doubt in my mind that this baby gorilla and his mother shared as much love as would humans: he looked at her with adoration and our hearts were melting.
It was easy to notice the difference between the mountain gorillas of the Virunga and the Grauer’s gorillas of Kahuzi-Biega National Park. Since they live higher up where it is colder, the mountain gorillas are way fluffier that the Grauer’s. It makes them incredibly cute, though the three huge silverbacks sitting together remained very intimidating. When one of them charged us a little later, growling and menacing, I felt real fear for the first time since in the Virunga. Even if I knew I had to stay put and look to the ground to appease the gorilla, I staggered back and would have run if the rangers had not held me still. But it was all for show and the silverback soon retreated with the other gorillas. This male wanted to show us who was the boss, and he had succeeded.
One hour is too short to spend with gorillas. But we certainly didn’t want to bother them, so we left and went back to the lodge and then to Goma. We will never forget our encounter with the mountain gorillas.
Why visit the gorillas in the Virunga National Park?
As we watched the gorillas, we could not help but think about the incredible privilege of being there. But the true value of our visit went beyond the personal experience. Every dollar spent in the Virunga supports the rangers who risk their lives daily to protect this sanctuary, and the local communities who rely on the park for their livelihood. So yes, visiting the gorillas in the Virunga is not as safe as elsewhere, but your financial support is very important to the park. Protecting the Virunga and its wildlife is an extremely dangerous job, and too many of the rangers are killed on duty. To support widows and their families, the shop of the park also sells various items handmade by these women. We do recommend buying some of these beautiful crafts.
There is another advantage to going for the Virunga- mountain gorilla experience: its price. The permit to visit the gorillas in the Virunga is $400 per person, half of what you would pay in Bwindi National Park in Uganda ($800) and more than three times cheaper than in the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda ($1500). If like us, your budget is limited, it’s an attractive offer.
So, if you happen to be in the region and feel the call of the wild, know that the Virunga experience is not only life-changing but life-saving. With your own detailed security, the risks are actually very small, and you’ll do this amazing place a favor. But of course, before planning any trip in the region of Goma, we do advise you to check the safety situation there, and if you get there, to take all possible precautions!
If you want to know more about the Virunga National Park and their gorillas, visit their website or watch the stunning documentary ‘Virunga’ dedicated to the valiant rangers who risk their lives every day defending the park and their gorillas, currently available on Netflix.
In the face of war and exploitation, Virunga remains a symbol of hope. A place where nature’s beauty still thrives against all odds. Your visit could be a small part of protecting that, ensuring that future generations can share in the awe we felt when we stood face-to-face with the gorillas.
